Collection: Épaississants

Cosmetic thickeners lend their natural viscosity to liquid formulations, creating consistencies perfect for gels, creams, butters, and beyond. They can also help improve the stability of the products they’re added to - improving texture, aesthetics, and, of course, performance!

Though different types of thickeners offer unique properties, the vast majority work on the same molecular basis - absorbing water and creating a network of tightly interlinked chains, which increases the viscosity of the liquid they’re added to.

Adding a thickener to your handmade soap and cosmetic creations can make all the difference to the texture of the end result - and, as all makers know, the way product feels on the skin or hair really can be make or break! By bonding the molecules together more tightly, cosmetic thickeners are able to create anything from a glide-on gel to a luxuriously creamy texture. Not only that - they can also help to stabilise emulsions, keeping your crafts looking and feeling their best, even over time.

Of course, different thickeners bring their own unique properties to the table. Each will affect the texture of your formula in its own way, so choose wisely!

Olive wax is a brilliant thickener and stabiliser for skin and haircare formulas - boasting a melting point similar to beeswax. It’s known for leaving a velvety feel when used on the skin, creating a protective layer that restricts moisture loss, whilst enhancing the suppleness of skin. When used to create haircare products, olive wax brings about silkiness and static control. Even better, it doubles as a deep conditioner for a healthy-looking scalp.

This reliable ingredient can be used in a variety of formulations, such as candles, hair waxes, lip care products, hair conditioners, and leave-in/rinse-off hair masks. In skincare formulations, olive wax is commonly used to create creams and lotions, balms and moisturising lotion bars.

Beeswax can be used as a thickener in many bath, body, and cosmetics recipes. Its natural viscosity, stabilising abilities, and humectant qualities make it a wonderful addition to lotions, balms, and creams, in which it’s able to create smooth, spreadable textures perfect for application to the skin, and form a protective barrier ideal for locking in moisture.

Beeswax has been present in skincare products and routines for centuries thanks to these inherent properties. It's also non-comedogenic, meaning it won't clog pores, and is generally gentle enough for use on sensitive skin. 

Of course, beeswax isn’t perfectly suited to every type of formulation. Before getting started, be sure to double-check your recipes, ingredients, and ratios! 

Finding the right cosmetic thickener for your recipe can be difficult – especially if you’re looking to ensure the final result is 100% vegan-friendly. 

Some of the most common plant-based cosmetic thickening agents available include xanthan gum (which is derived from corn or soy), cellulose (originating from plant cell walls), carrageenan (extracted from red seaweed), guar gum (harvested from guar beans), olive wax  (a vegetable-derived wax from olive oil), and cetyl alcohol (a fatty alcohol derived from natural oils like coconut and palm).

Cetyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol are both multi-purpose ingredients used by cosmetics makers worldwide. The main difference between them lies in their structure; whilst cetyl alcohol is a single chemical compound, cetostearyl alcohol is made up of a few different chemical ones. This, of course, results in a slight difference in performance - if you use cetyl alcohol instead of cetostearyl alcohol, your finished product will have less body, and feel slightly thinner.

With this being said, both variations can generally be used as thickeners and stabilisers.

If your lotion formula is looking a little thin, you’re in luck! Our experts have a few tried and tested tricks for you to try. 

One of our favourite approaches to thickening a lotion formula involves using a higher percentage of solid fats where possible. This could include, for example, coconut oil, beeswax, or shea butter - all of which can work towards increasing the overall viscosity of your lotion. 

Increasing the levels of emulsifying wax if used in your recipe may also do the job! This ingredient helps bind water and oil together, resulting in the type of thicker consistency needed in many creams. 

Of course, our last suggestion lies in thickeners! Whether using xanthan gum, a pre-formulated base, wax, or oil, you’re sure to achieve your ideal texture with these namesake ingredients. Be sure to follow the recommended usage rates for each thickener, as too much can result in an unpleasantly sticky end result. 

Thickening agents are a key element in many haircare formulas - from shampoo and conditioner to gels, masks, and beyond! They’re most often used for texture and stability reasons - granting products the substantial consistency they need for easy application and styling. Some popular thickening agents for hair products include xanthan gum, guar gum, and olive wax. 

Xanthan gum, for example, is found in a number of our pre-formulated hair product bases. Its natural viscosity helps our customers perfect the texture of their shampoo and conditioner, but the benefits don’t end there. It's also an effective emulsifier, meaning it can help keep water-based and oil-based ingredients from separating - extending shelf life!

Storing your newly purchased cosmetic thickeners is key to ensuring they perform as they should. Our experts recommend tucking them away in a cool, dry location away from any direct sunlight.

This environment not only prevents them from degrading but also ensures they retain their l thickening abilities. 

In addition to the above, it’s important to keep your thickeners in an airtight container – preferably the ones they were delivered in. This helps avoid moisture and potential microbial threats – both of which can compromise the performance and safety of any products you go on to create. 

Lastly, don’t forget the golden rule: keep an eye on those expiry dates. While many thickeners boast a generous shelf life, being aware of their duration ensures you’re always working with ingredients at their peak.